If you are checking out the new Funan Mall that has reopened this year, be sure to also check out modern Peranakan restaurant Godmama located at the 4th floor (you'll see it if you go up via 2 external escalators). I had the pleasure to be invited for tasting when they opened and while some of the dishes require a little more work, it is a interesting concept for brunch if you are looking for something familiar yet different.
First up, what's brunch without some coffee?
The mocha (S$6.50) and latte (S$5.50) here are superb.
Here's the brunch menu (weekends, 10am to 4pm) for your perusal. As you can see, prices are slightly on the hefty side. Which isn't a crime if it is Peranakan food because they do take some work compared to just throwing some eggs on a skillet. However just a consideration if you are running on a budget (their set lunch menu on weekdays might be of a better value!)
We tried a variety of dishes, some more brunch-y than others!
First up, some good ol' All Star Egg Skin Popiah ($6.50) which uses co-owner’s Godmama Monica’s traditional family recipe. The fillings tasted pretty decent and overall there's the heartiness of a good popiah. The egg skin, though handmade, felt a bit on the thicker side. 3/5
We then progressed to some Babi Assam Baked Eggs (S$16.90) which is their Head Chef Fredric Goh's signature pork belly with tamarind stew and tau kwa with two half-boiled eggs, with some sourdough bread from Bread & Hearth. This was a very appetising dish with the gravy as the perfect dip for the eggs! The pork belly didn't feel too.. oily as well. Rather creative way to reinvent a classic, I reckon! 4/5
We also sampled the Pulled Pork Pongteh Sunny (S$15.90) which saw the pulled pork stew with homemade bean sauce on top of the same sourdough bread, along with a crispy side of emping keropok. I liked this dish too for how simple it was yet typically Asian tasting, of comfort food and festivities. To me pulled pork is always heavy but in this combination it works and it was the right balance on the carbs! 4/5
Then the actually heavy dish - the Buah Keluak Bolognese Pasta (S$19.90). As Singaporeans would know, Buah Keluak is not an easy ingredient to work with (you have to treat it properly to remove the cyanide) so it costs a bomb typically. In here, its flesh has been dug out and mixed with minced beef to create the bolognese. Unfortunately I could not taste any of its presence with the tomatoes and beef overpowering it. The linguine was al dente and tasty itself but there really wasn't a lot of it to go around. For that, I'm afraid it gets a notch down. 3/5
We also ended with their signature Banana Pengat Buttermilk Pancakes (S$17.90). Unfortunately, this performed poorly as well largely due to the texture of the pancakes which was too dense and floury (almost like undercooked!). The bananas were a bit sour too so that wasn't great (just our table). The banana pengat compote in the jar also just tasted like sweet milk. So I would say this was a miss. 2/5
Consider going to Godmama for a good taste of Peranakan + modern brunch food - especially if it is cloudy enough to sit outside at their alfresco area. While some dishes could do with more improvements, I applaud them for the effort to create something new that continues our traditional cuisine. Godmama
Funan Mall, 109 North Bridge Rd, #04-07, Singapore 179105
Mondays to Fridays 11am to 2.30pm, 6 to 10pm, Saturdays/Sundays 10.30am to 4.30pm, 6-10pm
Chope to reserve
Thanks to Godmama and Nomadic Collective for the invite!
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